When Bell & Ross announced , those of us who had participated in BaselWorld 2019 were eagerly waiting for the public's response. I remember that when I saw the trailer for the conference for the first time, I had to take the oath of office (not true), and we will not discuss it anymore. I thought "Wow, they really like it." "It" is a clear, unapologetic design, inspired by Genta and his iconic luxury sports watch. The status of the icon is so lofty, to approach its form with your own design is to dance with destiny. Icarus came to mind. Therefore, at the press conference, I would like to know whether they succeeded or failed.
The reaction is-both. The diehards and snobberies who oppose the Royal Oak and Nautilus condemned the move only out of respect. Those with rich pockets or people who have no AD connection cannot obtain the said watch, but still see it as an opportunity to enjoy the aesthetics they dream of, and this still comes from the brand they know, trust and respect. Many more people just don't care about either way at all. Final Results? Well, there is nothing. Things are out of hand. Now, Bell & Ross is the proud manufacturer of a series of luxury sports watches in stainless steel with integrated bracelets, which can be purchased in large local watch shops. Frankly speaking, a series of watches seems to fit their existing watch series and their position in the market very well. To be fair, although Bell & Ross is a new model, it is not in the 70s, but they still imitate the format of the "Marine Corps" watches of the 90s, although their functions are much more obvious. Tactically, the Germans resonated with them.
So why should I write this on Wear and Wounds? Bell & Ross (Bell&Ross) is a brand, and its design, especially the round box design, I find very attractive. Seeing them with their own eyes, they will always complete their work to an extraordinary degree, which gives them the luxury of "X-factor". Perhaps my favorite example is BR V1, which is equivalent to the Swiss luxury version of Sinn 556 (not just because of the early relationship between the two brands). It is small, dexterous, very good on the wrist, and has reached the ninety percent unchanged, but also low-key the value of the tool watch. This is also a perfect comparison, which can illustrate the biggest problem of Bell & Ross. In fact, many of their watches are just value for money.
BR 05 brings unique aesthetic characteristics to nature and can be used in more accessible terrain. Although it cannot be compared with value, I do believe that accessibility is at least a partner of value and is also very important to our work at Worn & Wound. In addition, BR 05 is a very beautiful watch. It mixes Genta DNA and Bell & Ross' unique form and typography vocabulary. Although I have never thought of 15202s or 5711s (the latter is more than the former, tbh) or a truly integrated bracelet watch, I do appreciate the finishing, if nothing else, this style of watch is for the brand Show off your abilities.
Therefore, let us put aside the controversy for a while and let Bell & Ross face to face and bracelet-like value this semi-radical. I can say from the beginning that, regardless of the price, BR 05 surprised me and perhaps made me an integrated sports watch guy.
Where to start? The case of BR 05 is actually BR05. As with all integrated bracelet watches, things starting from the wrist flow to the entire surface of the watch, forming a clean and tidy stainless steel case, which happens to tell the watch the time. You cannot really talk about the case without discussing the bracelet, and vice versa. So let's start with the overall shape.
Bell & Ross is famous for its square instrument table. Although they have made many other watches and cases, they will never escape the square. Therefore, they embraced it. The Associated Press has a round octagon, Patek Philippe’s porthole, and B&R has a square. After placing it in place, they adopted a platonic geometry, rounded the corners into a soft Nauti-cal shape, cut a hole in the center, and obtained the foundation of BR 05. This shape acts as a border and is located slightly offset from the 40mm middle shell at the top. Combined with the rotatable display back, you can see the main body of the watch, which has a thickness of 10.7 mm, which is very slim.
Let's stop there for a while. Part of what makes the BR 05 more attractive is that you can see some very simple shapes at the same time, while others are extremely complex, and they are all finished with a high degree of processing. The simplest fact is that the rounded square is at the top, which determines the overall tone of the design. This makes it easy to access (unlike the hollow dial in the faceted case, for example), and it's almost nothing, at least to me, it makes it more palatable.
Back to the mid-end – not only copied the shape of the bezel, it adopted this shape, but then turned steep downhill, and then seamlessly transitioned into the bracelet. This is one of the more RO style details. It looks as if the medium-sized case has been cut off on a grinder, forming very eye-catching details in shape and surface, but it is also very functional and provides a perfect angle for the growth of the bracelet. Then, the bracelet continued to maintain this shape, gradually reduced to 17 mm at the buckle, and re-wound on the other side.
Connecting each link is a wide rectangular block with rounded corners to make the shape work again. Between the flat surface and the larger connecting chain, the design mixes RO and Nautilus, while also talking to other series of B&R tool watch H chain bracelets. The buckle is butterfly-shaped, with a striking B&R and number logo at the seam where the buckle is closed. More information about what to wear later.